Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but say that their children do not want to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.